The Dsquared2 brand is as well known for its innovative fashion shows as its urban prêt-a-porter clothing. Helmed by brothers Dean and Dan Caten, the label, which produces for both men and women, often showcases the combination of unusual details such as fur-trimmed coats, plaids and chunky knits with a glam-rock aesthetic including deconstructed corsets, biker jackets and hand-stitched denim. “We consider our clothes to be real. We want people to look cool — not dressed up. We design what we want to wear ourselves. When people find stuff that is real, they respond,” the brothers explain. The attire, and the denim in particular, is a favourite among international musicians like Justin Timberlake, Christina Aguilera and Rihanna. Madonna and Britney Spears went so far as to have Dsquared2 create the wardrobes for their respective world tours.
Yet, what many don’t know is that six years after founding the company and trying their best to go it alone, the Caten brother entered into a licensing agreement with Staff International in a bid to bolster distribution. Staff, which was acquired by Renzo Rosso's Diesel Group in October 2000, has therefore been the official producer and distributor of all Dsquared2 attire since the early noughties. And, in a synergy with its parent company and in staying true to its love of all things denim, Dsquared2 has gone from strength to strength, finally opening its very first boutique in the Middle East earlier this year.
Venture through its doors and you will find the latest spring/summer collection in all its glory. While camp is always an element at Dean and Dan Caten's shows, for this collection the twins took the camping theme quite literally. The designs are laid-back, as so much of the Catens’ approach to life seems to be (during the course of the interview the word ‘casual’ came up on a regular basis), but they exhibit a touch of elegance that is, at first glance, perhaps at odds with the baseball caps on display on the catwalk. While there’s the figure-hugging take on the Little Black Dress, or a more aggressive, coral, backless halter-neck for the women and fitted shirts and sports jackets for the men, there’s always room for denim. “When we started, 15 years ago, our collections were a lot more casual and outdoorsy as they reflected our life as young designers who liked to stay out a lot and party wearing comfortable, not too formal stuff,” says Dan Caten. “We’ve grown up and Dsquared2 did with us: our collections are a lot more refined and we added a lot of sartorial pieces, which we like to wear ourselves today.”
That explains the evening dresses twinned with baseball caps then. Amid all the caps, sweaters, guitars and Wellington Boots, there’s a modern, edgy appeal to the collection. Yet, this modern glamour is in danger of becoming a little lost among the jeans and jackets. Nevertheless, the collection is, without a doubt, triumphant when it comes to women’s shoes. Sky-high heels, platforms and straps feature prominently throughout. Multi-coloured knee-high boots have a modern, almost punk feel with frontal laces that grace the length on the boot and the toeless, chic dress shoes would be at home at any black tie event. Dsquared2’s footwear will certainly turn heads this summer; it’s undeniably, and simply, cool.
Dsquared started off with menswear and this year’s collection stays true to its niche, classic Americana-inspired market. Pieces such as their jeans, detailed combat trousers and skinny shirts will very much appeal to those looking for tailored, but casual look. Checked shirts along with shorts, ranging from denim through to flannel and camouflage patterns, offer up the latest take on outdoor relaxation.
Sartorial additions such as sports jackets and fitted shirts add another to the menswear line, and it marks the evolution in the Catens’ thinking, “As we always say, “we design real clothes, for real people”. We create fashion that is sophisticated, yet wearable, ironic and fun yet sartorial and extremely detail-conscious. All Made in Italy,” said Dean Caten. He goes on to describe the collection as “camping meets glam, with a 1950s twist,” and it’s easy to see where he’s coming from. The incongruous mix of evening wear, sports jackets and torn jeans all seems to clash at first, but there’s an underlying message that’s fairly clear. Dsquared2’s latest is all about casual glamour.
It’s easy to see why the company has an impressive number of adherents. Of course, the brand inherently has a youthful appeal that might leave the older generation cold. However, where D&G, for example, may have a more global appeal, Dsquared2 manages to outcool its more established competitor. That there’s demand for the brand in this region is clear, “We have been received with warmth and curiosity, and found out that we had many fans of the brand, that made us so proud!” said Dan Caten. Now with the opening of a location in the Dubai Mall, the brothers are excited about their local prospects. What’s certain is that Dsquared2’s latest collection offers something new and interesting to the market and we’re all for a breath of fresh air.
CONTACT
Dsquared2
Dubai Mall
Fashion Avenue, 1st Floor
Dubai, UAE
Tel +971 4 339 8709
