One of the more reasonably priced custom shoe brands is Altan Bottier in Paris. Entering the atelier of is like entering another era. Tools are strewn everywhere recalling layered years of detailed craftwork, sensuous raw materials such as fine leather skins lay in rolls waiting to be chosen and cut, highly glamorous heels of French celebrities hang here and there, relaxing before they head out into the world. It is in these humble annals that the Paris’ truly well heeled are resourced by the best, most experience hands in the business. For those who care about shoes, the quality found within the understated Altan Bottier boutique makes them melt. A walk past the window of the boutique, to those with no eye for detail or interest in luxury it looks like another sophisticated shoe store, just steps away from the Champs-Elysées and the Presidential Elysées Palace on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. But to those with a lust for luxury, there is another, perceptible layer beyond the models on display. There is an overall element to the shoes that breathes deep authenticity. Timelessly elegant, they stand on another level than the mass-produced models available, even from the best brands on the market.
From French ministers, to celebrity performers, European aristocrats, and Arab princesses that order 20 pairs at a time after one fitting in their royal palaces – once clients receive a pair of custom-made shoes crafted by the hands of Sükrü, the company’s founder, they tend to instantly plan the next pair to order. The company has no bold marketing strategy and a humble website, but the value of the content within the bespoke product is not only well beyond any mass-market luxury brand but also is a diminishing traditional art. There is simply no need for marketing, because those who choose custom-made shoes tend to self-select, and would likely prefer that journalists don’t uncover their well-guarded secret. They are those who deeply appreciate and understand how shoes are meant to be.
Sükrü learned the rudimentaries of his profession at the early age of eight in Turkey, working in his family shoe-making business. He stopped school at age 14 to work full-time, at one time serving in the Turkish military, again making shoes for soldiers. At age 17, he took a holiday to Paris, France, and – without the intention of do so when starting out – fell in love with the city and made a life for himself, eventually working with the best of the best.
Whether inside the design studios of Hermès, alongside shoe craftsmen at Berluti and John Lobb, or at a lesser-known “maison” on avenue Montaigne, called Delicata, he gained ten years of experience working throughout luxury ateliers in Paris. He was, at this point already an experienced craftsman when he opened Altan Bottier. Altan is the name of his son, who works within the business and, in recent years, managed the launch of a ready-to-wear line, off the base of Sükrü’s entirely bespoke service, which is the heart of Altan Bottier.
When Sükrü first arrived in Paris, he estimates there were 200 traditional bottiers making bespoke shoes at the time; today he believes that there are only about ten – with roughly six producing men’s shoes (including Bespoke’s long standing favourite Berluti), and only two producing women’s shoes.
Why customise?
Crafting men’s custom-made shoes is, contrary to what you might think, a more complicated and expensive endeavor that the making of women’s shoes. The sewing must be more durable, the cuts are more complicated, for example, with details such as lacing and, in general, more leather is used for the shoe. A bespoke shoe takes about two weeks, minimum, and at least two fittings for completion.
There is one type of men’s shoe, for example, called the Norwegian style in which there are two layers of stitching that hold the upper leather to the sole; it makes for an extremely durable shoe. When custom ordered, every stitch is done by hand with an extremely strong, slightly curved needle.
Ordering a bespoke shoe is – like all made-to-measure services – a process that starts with a discussion and a personal exploration of what would fit one’s daily life and style. While, of course, bespoke shoes are often made for special occasions such as weddings for women, perhaps the wisest reason to go bespoke is for daily use. Made-to-measure shoes can be worn every day without any tiring of the feet. They are so properly attuned to one’s feet that, for example, a woman can wear a 4-inch heel bespoke stiletto without a fraction of discomfort or unease; that is because the ball of the foot, the heel and the arch are so perfectly measured that the weight of the body is entirely balanced throughout the customised shoe.
Hunting or riding boots are also an item that is often appreciated when bespoke-crafted, while others turn to bespoke shoes because they can be made with enhancements to make one look taller. One model of shoe – that it could be ventured to say is produced nowhere else in the world than at Altan Bottier – is an accordion-style men’s leather boot. The area around the ankle, literally, looks like an accordian, rendering it extremely comfortable, easy to put on and take off, and harks back to another era when this style was à la mode and, today, is simply and ultimately chic.
The process
It starts with the bare foot against a piece of paper on the ground, around which an outline of the foot is traced, and circumference and length measurements are noted. Some stylistic sketches are then made – if a suitable model does not already exist to the client’s liking, further details can be discussed as to exactly how the final overall shoe will be styled.
The base of the bespoke shoe starts as a standard wooden mold that approaches the general length and width of the foot. This mold is then finely-tuned, by adding additional cork-like material to it, adding dimension, so that it eventually represents one’s foot precisely.
Then the leather is cut with a blade, which determines the shape and leather detailing of the upper part. In general, the upper leather part of a shoe has two layers of leather – an inner layer and an outer layer that are glued together by a mix of wax and rubber glue that fixes it firmly in place. A third layer of leather is added in areas like the back heel for reinforcement.
The leather is then placed upon the wooden mold and then pulled tightly across it, in a process that is called the montage, roughly translated as mounting or assembly. Once properly taut to fit the shape of the mold, pins are hammered into a base sole and the wood so that the leather is tightly held and balanced upon the mold’s shape. This is the general crafting of the first model, upon which a first fitting is made with the client’s foot. It could be called a sort of “leather pattern” by which the specificities of the actual shoe will be referenced.
With this, the measurements and all style discussions had, the actual shoe is then made. The sole is made of entirely leather, a strong and hard leather. And there is nothing in the world quite like the sound of leather-soled shoes walking, particularly when strolling in a museum or upon classic wooden floors. It makes a soft but distinct sound – a sound of thorough quality.
This is luxury – to have an expert’s eye, hands, cultivated taste and experience entirely dedicated to your uniquely personal needs. And your shoe needs, at that.
Conclusion
Shoes are a very personal item, as they carry you throughout the day. They express character, taste and quality perhaps like no other accessory. They are necessary but they are also a necessary luxury. They are what brings you forward through life and living. They can complete an outfit or bring ordinary clothes to another level by their simple sophistication.
And beyond style prerogatives, living well is about feeling well. And to have the materials closest to your body made exactly for that one single body, and not made according to a pattern that represents the average person as is found in mass-market goods. Custom-made shoes are the place to start for a bespoke approach to life. From head to toe, shoes are the ultimate compliment for a well-measured mind.
Altan Bottier
33, rue Miromesnil
75008 Paris
Tel: 01 44 56 03 88
