Jeffrey Rüdes is a designer entrepreneur with a stellar track record. You probably haven’t heard of him though, or of his new eponymous label, but we’re going to bet you’ve heard of his previous venture, J Brand. He launched that one in 2004 (along with former stylist Susie Crippen) because, having spent a number decades in the denim business, he had seen jeans transform from simply moderate price point products into designer wear. J Brand took it a step further and helped create a new premium sector.
Indeed, J Brand was so successful in its mission of creating discretely labelled sophisticated jeans with an emphasis on fit that could make men and women look and feel beautiful that it spread globally like wildfire, selling in more than 2,000 stores and specialty boutiques across 20 countries. Then in 2012, Fast Retailing, owners of Uniqlo, gave Rüdes an almost 300 million USD offer he couldn’t refuse, and which ultimately meant he had to give up an 80 per cent stake in the business.
But Rüdes has made his comeback. In July, the entrepreneur launched Jeffrey Rüdes, a designer men’s brand that he has self-financed. And it’s not about jeans this time. In fact, he’s only offering two types of jeans in total. “Jeans are still a big part of my vision. Everything is meant to go back to jeans,” he says. “It’s how guys dress now but I’ve also been collecting items for over ten years that I would want to reference to build this designer brand for men, one that shares what I am passionate about.”
That passion is essentially everyday glamour and it all starts with the jacket – the cornerstone of the modern wardrobe and the common denominator for professionals, rockers, doctors and artists. “It’s about a feeling. The jacket is this emotional piece that makes a guy feel more handsome, cooler, smarter. It’s like an Alaïa dress for women.” This is why the jacket forms the basis of his collection and while many coloured and patterned options are available, there are five permanent black blazer styles that aren’t limited by season. From there, the collection builds to encompass shirts, knits and sweaters, leather and cashmere, wool and shearling outerwear, all of which exude the easygoing sophisticated cool that Rüdes says will be a mainstay of his brand.
In short, Jeffrey Rüdes is a label that provides timeless essentials for successful men who know what they want and how they want to dress but have never been able to find it all in one place. For the moment, that place is exclusively the company’s flagship store in New York’s SoHo. And while we are sure it’s only a matter of time until he starts to once again spread globally, at least there’s the e-commerce website in the meantime.
