They say time is a great healer and if that is true, then the Vietnamese port city of Da Nang is a shining example. After decades of being manipulated by everyone from the French to the Japanese and Americans, Vietnam is able to call itself a unified, burgeoning country. Now there’s no North/South disparity, the central city of Da Nang stands on its own, no longer caught in the middle. As I drive to my hotel past picturesque riverside streets lined with bars and cafes and over its dramatically lit bridge, I am already impressed.
The newly opened Intercontinental out on the Son Tra peninsula is all anyone’s talking about in town and as legend has it that fairies from heaven would descend upon the hilly peninsula to frolic on its pristine beaches, I had to see what all the fuss was about. Aside from the jaw-dropping design by the Bangkok-based architect and landscape designer Bill Bensley, known for his work on luxury resorts, the Intercon boasts a string of firsts for Vietnam and Da Nang. These include the first private resort beach - the 30 kilometre coastline of Da Nang is regarded as one of the top six in the world but every other resort in the city shares its beach - and the first restaurant in the country to be developed by a Michelin-starred chef.
The rooms are built along a hillside on four levels: Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea. As I was taken down the winding hillside to my Atrium Suite (I chose Earth), I shivered in the back of my buggy. Call me old-fashioned, but I thought a beachside resort would be warm enough to, well, go to the beach. This is definitely not the case until the driest, warmest months, from March until August.
Oddly enough, both Classic Rooms and Atrium Suites accommodate only two, with no options for extra beds. Looking for more room? The spacious seaside villas located just steps from the beach, complete with personal infinity pools, are ideal if you’re travelling with children while this Spring, the Royal Residence by the Sea, a sprawling 300 square-metre, two bedroom abode, as well as two Spa Lagoon Retreat Villas, all complete with their own butler, come on line. But even if you’re not staying in your own spa villa, the resort’s expansive Harnn Heritage Spa, also set to open this Spring, doesn’t disappoint. I was one of the first to receive the oriental beauty massage, which was so good that I’m contemplating going back for their signature treatment which features a hot marble slab, hot and cold stones and follows the principles of Dong Yi, an ancient medical practice that is similar to the Hammam, but better.
Another facet that sets this resort head and shoulders above the ubiquitous beach hotels in town, is its dining options. Every venue tells a story, from the café where guests are invited to remove shoes and dine on the sand, to the all-day dining option, Citron, where guests can sit in suspended pods that float high above the lower levels to better marvel at hill and sea vistas. Here, you’ll also find the most expansive breakfast spread you’ve ever seen, Carb-lover that I am, I thoroughly enjoyed their Viennoiserie. But by far the best culinary experience (and story) is to be had at Maison 1888, the fine dining restaurant by multi-Michelin starred chef, Michel Roux. As the name suggests, it’s designed as a 19th century colonial French mansion and rooms are designed for the fictitious owners’ three children; a son who is a constant traveller, another who’s an accountant, and a daughter with a penchant for ‘gentlemen callers’. Her room is designed as an intimate boudoir.
Day turns into night beautifully at the Intercon. As the sun sets gloriously over the hills and sea, the place to see and be seen after hours is definitely the Long Bar. This venue will give any St. Tropez or Miami beachside boîte a run for its money. I didn’t want to miss hanging out and people-watching, so I bundled up and lounged on one of the seaside beds, sipping on a Pussycat.
While there’s plenty to do (and eat) at the resort, there’s also tons of history and intrigue once you leave its confines. The nearby Marble Mountain features a mystical network of caves, tunnels and grottos, many of which are Buddhist temples built centuries ago. While driving to the resort (especially at night) you’ll notice a giant statue that peeks out from atop a hill, presiding over the entire city. This is the 62-metre statue of the Goddess of Mercy, part of the Linh Ung Pagoda, which features the most breathtaking views of the East Sea and surrounding hills. For a short retreat to cooler climes and a bit of French colonial history, be sure to experience the Ba Na Hills, where a cable car will take you from the lush canopies of the rainforest all the way to the top. Finally, be sure not to miss the Mo, a magnificent waterfall located just two kilometres east of the hills.
Da Nang makes the ideal base for day excursions to must-see historical cities, Hue and Hoi An. Hue used to be the seat of dynasties past, it’s museums, city walls and royal tombs will definitely please the history buffs. Being more of a shopaholic, I hopped on the twice-daily shuttle to Hoi An and discovered I had the good fortune of visiting during the full moon festival, held on the 14th and 15th lunar day of each month, when motor vehicles are politely turned away from the old town, which is magically lit by lanterns. After stopping for some good, old-fashioned home cooking at Treat, I left this captivating town armed with one-of-a-kind buys – a made-to-measure light wool jacket, a signature jade and silver bangle and a hand painted t-shirt from Le Boutique – happy that I was warm at last.
