The minute you step inside Aux Merveilleux de Fred, you’ll realise that this isn’t your typical French patisserie. With large crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and black and gold etchings of extravagant figures on the wall, it could almost be the open kitchen of an old house. The etchings reference the “Incroyables” (incredible men) and the “Merveilleuses” (marvellous women) of late 18th century Paris, flag-bearers of an aristocratic subculture known for its decadence and eccentric clothing – enormous hats, heavy earrings, monocles and billowing coats.
It’s Sunday and the people gathered at the Aux Merveilleux de Fred on Rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th arrondissement seem to be in direct competition with the crowd in front of the neighbouring chapel. Intrigued, I take a peek to see what the fuss is all about. Apparently, it’s to do with the airy wonders known as meringues - which at Fred come covered with flavoured creams - that were developed by pastry chef Frédéric Vaucamp from a traditional recipe originating from northern France.
Chef Vaucamp’s snowball-sized meringues (which you can also order as full-sized cakes) are coated in Chantilly cream and then rolled variously and generously in flakes of chocolate (dark or white), crystallised coffee, praline, caramel or cherry, depending on your preference. As they are prepared, you can watch the cheerful bakers at work behind the counter, whipping the egg whites and sugar before cooking them at a very low heat until they become crisp on the outside and delightfully gooey within.
I must say that even as a child, I was never one for meringues, it was something about their curled peaks and chewy cores. On the one hand, they dissolved too quickly in the mouth and on the other, they were too sweet on the inside, in contrast to their dry exterior. Perhaps that’s why they’re known as the ‘forgotten biscuit’ – the lengthy baking time is gone in an instant, plus they can’t be kept for longer than a few days.
So I’m particularly cautious and decide to confine myself to a mini-sized Merveilleux. As the queue approaches the counter, I’m suddenly overcome by the whimsicality of this bakery and the confidence of its staff that I find myself going the whole hog and ordering mini-versions of all six flavours. They are, after all, only a couple of bites each and with their humorous names, like the Impensable (Unthinkable), which is Coffee-flavoured, the Excentrique (Eccentric), which is Cherry and the glorious Sans-Culotte (Knickerless), which is Caramel, my curiosity is piqued. Meanwhile, Fred’s Merveilleux is dark chocolate and his Incroyable is white.
A few moments and a mouthful later, I find that only one of my childhood preconceptions is confirmed - they do melt too quickly in one’s mouth. They are not too sweet though and it is their texture – the balance between the firm, crunchy exterior and the melting flakes, with the airy, light interior and its oozily chewy sections - that make them so delectable. The one I find the most interesting is the Incroyable, for its combination of rich, white chocolate which tastes a bit like sweetened milk and Speculoos, the Dutch Christmas short crust biscuit with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg.
The next day, before leaving Paris, I’m a little surprised to find myself heading back for more. I arrive home with my meringues almost completely squished, fragile as they are, but even flattened, they still taste every bit as good.
WHAT Aux Merveilleux de Fred
WHO French pastry chef, Frédéric Vaucamp, who was trained at the Lenôtre over by the Presidential Palace on the Champs Elysées
WHY Beginning in Lille and now with a handful of bakeries across Paris, as well as in London and Knokke, Aux Merveilleux de Fred gives traditionally baked meringues a distinctly modern twist.
