With its dark oak panelling, mellow lighting, paintings (curated by Dubai über alles artist, Patricia Millins), green leather and stained glass walled ‘terrace’, Martin Brudnizki has done an impressive job of recreating the between-the-wars feel of the Ivy’s elder sibling.
Fortunately, the similarities don’t end there. It can’t boast a star-studded lunch set – although as I savoured an aperitif and made headway on the toasted nuts and quail’s egg-sized green olives, the sartorially daring gentlemen beside me were obviously au fait with the minutiae of British celebrity gossip – but Dubai’s Ivy does remain true to its culinary tradition.
Rather than regionalising the seasonal menu, chef Simon Conboy lovingly mixes more sophisticated dishes, such as veal sweetbreads with girolles with the comfort food classics that made the Ivy’s fame; the rich, savoury Shepherd’s Pie, the oh-so-soft salmon fish cake swathed in a voluptuous sorrel sauce, the sensational warm duck salad, served on a bed of crisp watermelon bits and the cracking Bombe, with its tart blood orange sauce and lashings of warm, oozing chocolate.
As an approach, it may not be incredibly daring but if the busy dining room and sounds of gustatory delight issuing from adjoining tables are an indication, diners don’t always need a challenge.
WHAT The Ivy
WHERE Dubai
FACT The original London-based restaurant is notorious for its exclusive reservations; you often need to book many months in advance if you’re not well-connected
WHY Bringing this culinary British institution to Dubai means you can sample its comfort food classics, such as the savoury shepherd’s pie, in a regal, yet home-spun ambience away from home.
