Who Unconditional
Designer Philip Stevens
What A London-based label with a new take on casual chic
Why With regional distribution through Boutique 1, Unconditional has been a great hit among men who appreciate fitted, high-quality casual clothing.
www.unconditional.uk.com
While heading up Soho’s Concrete Shop, Philip Stevens (also the designer and founder of Concrete PR) decided that he needed luxury basics with a distinctly British bite, and so he launched his own line. Five years have passed since then and Philip Stevens' Unconditional line of men’s and women's wear has earned dedicated support from suitably trendsetting stars, including Adrian Brody, Jude Law, The Rolling Stones, Patti Smith, Gwen Stefani, Kelis and Madonna, as well as editors and other fans of unconventional casual chic.
The rock star roots of Steven's style are in evidence at his fashion shows, which are often held in raw basement club settings, populated with nightlight lovers. Stevens' clothes have managed to carve their own niche, creating looks that are wearable but at the same time push the boundaries of convention. Some of Unconditional more outstanding signature men’s looks include fine gauge knits, draped and gathered garments (recalling streamlined sixties-style futurism) as well as their highly popular chest-baring T-shirts. The colours tend to be classic urban neutrals such as blacks, browns, greys and blues, often set off with clear bright flashes. Nonetheless, Steven’s main focus is on making garments that comfort their wearers and envelop them in a sense of security while appearing inviting to outside viewers. “Unconditional is essentially about cool luxury basics," he says. "It started with my obsession with hoods and knitwear, and I still strive to create pieces that you can cocoon in; clothes that function like a protective shell. It sounds corny, but the world can be quite harsh.”
In striving to be better than the world around it, Unconditional’s decadent designs are matched by an ethical concern for production and materials. Since its inception, Unconditional has incorporated natural fabrics and rejected environmentally unsound practices. The silk and faux fur bikini which Kate Moss wore to perfect effect in a W spread exemplifies Steven's sleek take on oft-overlooked wardrobe staples and his concern for producing clothes without harming animals or the Earth.
At their core, Steven's aspirations are simple and enduring. As he explains, “London is tricky, the clothes are often not affordable and you don’t often see them worn in real life. It’s a limited market. It can be like the emperor’s new clothes – but who actually buys and wears the stuff? I just try to design pieces to love and wear, if not forever, for as long as they don’t wear out!” And in response, the love that Unconditional garners among the people it clothes is absolute.
