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Sublime vertigo

Replete with history, the land that gracefully extends along the warm waters of the Amalfi Coast has seen the birth of empires and cradled the growth of civilisations. Arguably the best way to explore the west coast of Italy is by boat, providing easy access to quiet backwaters and anchora

4 Jun 2009 By Official Bespoke 6 min read
Sublime vertigo

The beauty and tranquillity of the Amalfi coastline stems from a combination of old-world charm and Italy’s appreciation of the finer things in life, making it a wonderful place for an intriguing yet relaxing holiday. Follow in the footsteps of countless writers and composers and allow yourself to succumb to the allure of the Amalfi Coast with a charter aboard Parsifal III, followed by a few days residing ashore to explore the historic island of Sicily.

Follow in the footsteps of countless writers and composers and allow yourself to succumb to the allure of the Amalfi Coast with a charter aboard Parsifal III, followed by a few days residing ashore to explore the historic island of Sicily. Coloured by a long history of splendour and suffering, the Amalfi Coast has barely changed since the Roman emperors made it their headquarters in the first century AD.

Unsurprisingly, the Amalfi Coast has long been a magnet for travellers attracted to its glorious cultural and artistic heritage, beautiful countryside and wonderful food. Hotels and restaurants can be found in splendid villas and medieval convents, some of which welcomed the first Grand Tourists almost two centuries ago. From cities boasting innumerable treasures of Renaissance palaces, baroque masterpieces and Roman remains, to sun-drenched coves hugging the emerald sea, the warmth and personality of Italy shines through. The islands speckled along the Amalfi coastline have the same irresistible appeal. From the sophisticated islands of Capri and Ischia to the dramatically positioned towns that dot the mainland, your charter will take you on a stimulating journey of old-world charm and five-star luxury.

You will step aboard your private yacht in the bustling Bay of Naples. Some of the world’s most glamorous yachts are available for charter along the stunning Amalfi coastline, and Camper & Nicholsons International have a stunning portfolio, from large motor and sailing yachts, classic and modern, to performance sailing yachts and smaller fast cruisers. The Amalfi Coast though is made for sailing aboard the likes of the 54m Parsifal III from Perini Navi or the 35m Sojana, built for both racing and comfortable sailing. As you sail across the bay to the volcanic island of Ischia with a Campari and soda to hand, watch the beguiling landscape scattered with relics of bygone empires fade in the distance.

Known as ‘the island of well being’, Ischia is famous for its thermal springs and therapeutic spas, and has long been a source of inspiration for artists, musicians and writers. Here you can step ashore and browse the boutiques of San’t Angelo. Step ashore and visit the islands most famous spa at La Terme della Regina Isabella or simply enjoy a prosecco on the terrace of the neighbouring hotel L’Abergo della Regina Isabella. Following an afternoon of watersports in the sun-drenched bay of Punta Molino, dine on deck whilst enjoying panoramic views over the imposing castle that was once the summer residence of the kings of Aragon. After a relaxing night aboard it is time to sail back across the bay to the mainland. Balanced like a ship’s prow high above the sea, Ravello has no beach but makes up for it with gardens and views that have inspired more than their share of masterpieces, most famously D. H. Lawrence’s book Lady Chatterley’s Lover. One of the many gardens in Ravello, that belonging to Villa Cimbrone is generally acknowledged to be Italy’s most romantic, with its well-named Terrace Of Infinity. The 13th century Villa Rufolo, with its Moorish cloister, is more famous for virtuosos than views. Wagner was so smitten by the gardens here that he re-created its grounds as Klingsor’s magic gardens of seduction in his opera Parsifal. Every summer, the gardens are the stage for a festival in honour of Wagner, and your charter broker will be happy to secure tickets for you.

Pompeii is close by and the following day your crew will accompany you with refreshments as you wander around the ruins. A ghost town since AD79, Pompeii was buried under tiny stones and ash from Vesuvius until 1763 when excavation of the city began. Much of our knowledge of the Romans and their way of life has come from Pompeii, whose state of preservation is astonishing. As you wander in and out of people’s houses and sit on their seats in the amphitheatre you will be transported back to a remarkable civilisation founded on slavery.

Fortunately the town of Sorrento, perched on the cliffs, was far enough from Vesuvius to survive the blast that buried Pompeii. Before joining the ‘It’ crowd in Capri, step ashore and embrace the wraparound views of the Bay of Naples from the cliff-top terraced walkways of the Museo Correale di Terranova. For those who have worked up more of an appetite, reservations can be made at the Excelsior Vittoria’s ‘Bosuet’ terrace and bar, whose guestbook boasts many famous names including Richard Strauss, The Prince of Wales who also returned Edward VII, and more recently Sophia Lauren and Luciano Pavarotti.

Originally part of the Sorrentine peninsula, the island of Capri has been through many personality changes over the centuries. The dazzling island was the playground of Augustus and his son Tiberius and one of the world’s first tourist destinations. During the summer the island is a victim of its own charms as visitors arrive in flocks. Thankfully, aboard Parsifal III you can enjoy a vast array of watersports around the more secluded anchorages to the west of the island. As the crowds depart late in the afternoon, the discreet glamour of Capri emerges. Take a hair-raising ride up to Anacapri to visit the paradisiacal gardens of Villa San Michele before an aperitif on the Piazzetta and dinner at the Quisisana – an A-list favourite since the 1930s.

On day four or five, depending on your preference, you’ll sail across the Gulf of Salerno to the charming town of Positano. At the peak of the dolce vita era, Positano rivalled Capri for jet-set glamour and the town is still popular. Further down the coast, the traditional fishing town of Amalfi boasts past glories as a maritime state. Home to wealthy Italian merchants, Amalfi was a maritime republic rivalling Pisa, Genoa and Venice. Explore the town before retiring for an overnight sail south towards Sicily and the Aeolian islands.

Volcanoes created the Aeolian islands, and two of the islands’ volcanoes are still active. Inhabited since the fifth millennium BC, they were named after Aeolus, god of the winds, and are perfect for peace and quiet and, naturally, sailing. You’ll awake to find yourself anchored off the volcanic island of Stromboli, where the volcano has been in a state of near-continuous eruption for 2,000 years. Stromboli is best observed at sunset from the decks of a yacht, so in the early evening set sail for the most fashionable of the Aeolian islands, Panarea, and join the Milanese yachting crowd with an apéritif on deck while watching the sun set over neighbouring Stromboli. After a peaceful night’s anchorage, set sail for the largest island in the chain, Lipari. Home to some of the Aeolian’s most notable buildings, the island has the air of a place where time has stood still. For great atmosphere and heady music, the Kasbah in the main town has a relaxed and stylish atmosphere. Awake for your final sail aboard Parsifal III through the Messina Straits and the fleets of tall-masted swordfishing boats to Taormina – the Monte Carlo of Sicily, where you will bid farewell to Parsifal III and her crew and join the landlubbers ashore for three or four nights.

The rugged island of Sicily is yours to explore for the next three days. Strategically positioned between North Africa and Italy, Sicily has suffered a long history of invasion and the influence of the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and Normans is visible in the form of beautiful temples, colourful mosaics and historic buildings. The capital Palermo lies to the north of the island. An opulent city, Palermo has many fine examples of Norman and Baroque architecture, including the Palazzo Federico. One of the oldest and historically most important buildings in Palermo, the 12th century palazzo’s sleeping quarters have been kept exactly as they would have been in the 17th century, apart from added bathrooms. Located in the old centre of Palermo, the palazzo is a great base for your final few days on Sicily from which to explore the Cathedral, and other astounding baroque churches and buildings, the islands Valley of the Kings, and the infamous Mount Etna.

CNI can create a unique charter along the Amalfi Coast and through the Aeolian Islands. For further information on Parsifal III and Sojana, or any of the yachts in the CNI fleet visit HYPERLINK "http://www.camperandnicholsons.com" www.camperandnicholsons.com or call +44 (0)207 009 1950

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