I often have visions in which I’m speedily skiing down a white glistening mountain, ebulliently breathing in the clean, crisp air. I dream about the cosy après-ski; sitting around a warm fireplace, hands wrapped around a steaming cup of hot cocoa. Yes, these may be rather formulaic inspirations but aren’t they incredibly alluring?
Unfortunately it takes blood, sweat and tears to normally pull off a well-organised ski trip. In my experience, the fairly easy part is finding a fun group of friends who are up for a well-spirited skiing holiday. The trickiness lies in two seemingly simple words: when and where.
This year my friends and I all agreed on attempting to ‘step outside the box’ for once but the organisation was left to me. The general idea was to explore somewhere new because we were all tired of following the beaten paths of fashionable and trendy spots such as Gstaad, St. Moritz and Courchevel to name just three. Indeed, a dear girlfriend of mine had suggested a place called St. Anton in Austria. “Where on earth is that?” I thought to myself. In all honesty I needed very little persuasion. Why, you might ask? Because this friend of mine is as trustworthy as they come: a bohemian, down to earth, jet set, party girl, blessed with discerning taste and the ability to ski down a mountain better than anyone I have ever met.
Without giving the game away before you read any further, I must reveal that, sure enough, my boho-chic friend did not fail to impress because St. Anton was definitely the perfect skiing destination.
The hotel we chose was a small boutique-size establishment that had the warm charm and ambience of a (large) chalet yet the untraditional architectural modernity of something far more cutting edge. Named Lux Alpinae, it is a four star hotel that has only 26 rooms with each going for a bargain price of around 170 USD a night. It is conveniently located just a few minutes from the slopes and a short 10-minute walk from the centre of town. Of course, if you forget to bring a pair of warm winter boots, as I did, you can ungracefully slide your way into town in about 5 minutes.
The town itself is a charming place although I am still in doubt as to whether it is a village or a town. The nightlife scene is pretty decent and there is a cornucopia of quaint, little cafes and bars playing lounge music. The restaurants in town are great value for money although my favourites were the ones up on the slopes. Pretty much all of these mountain-top restaurants have outdoor seating which allowed us to enjoy our lunch breaks with our heads in the sun and our feet tucked in the snow.
When we first arrived at the hotel, we were given a tour by the very friendly host, Alexander. It seems the hotel was made from rough concrete with only nine load bearing pillars. This makes for an airy free-form space with a level of originality in the design that is truly impressive. Lux Alpinae means mountain light in Latin, and luminosity is very much the overriding philosophy of the metal, glass, timber and exposed brickwork building. To begin with the dining room has enormous glass windows, the lifts are panoramic and indeed every bedroom has a full flat glass front. Actually light radiates around every angle of the hotel, and not just any light, rather, “one that the mountains model from the beams of the sun. A light, that itself is permanently changing - the Lux Alpinae,” the manager poetised.
One of the strong suits of the hotel was the inviting lobby. Positioned just to the side of the main stairway is a lounge area made up of four L-shaped black leather couches set around a small fireplace. This is the best place to enjoy a cosy après-ski relaxation session, which is naturally my favourite part of the day. Grab one of the many coffee table books, flick through a magazine, connect to the wireless internet, or make use of one of the vast array of board games at your disposal; this is the chill-out area par excellence.
On the other side of the lobby is the reception and bar, which overlook the conservatory-like dining area. The hotel prides itself on its culinary offer and I must say that the breakfasts were extraordinary. Each morning a full-on breakfast buffet is laid out. This was not just any old continental breakfast, but a breakfast so tempting in its selection that it converts any non-believer into a full on foodie. Personally, after I had had my cereal I would then manage to make a plate of eggs, bacon, sausages, crepes, yoghurts, warm pastries, fresh fruits, freshly baked homemade bread and Swiss cheeses - although I am a little embarrassed to admit it now. A unique touch was how each group is assigned their own dining table and you keep this table during your entire stay.
For those looking for some special rest and relaxation after a day of hard skiing, the hotel is equipped with a small but perfectly civilised spa. It is located on the lower ground floor, and features a steam room, sauna, jacuzzi and a massage room. It is always nice to have the option of a proper defrost after a long day on a cold mountain.
All the hotel’s rooms are south-facing and are near identical, although half have a blue décor and the other half is red. There is no clutter or excess, rather minimalism is the name of the game here. The soberness is somewhat balanced by some pop-art rugs and generous-sized beds and bathtubs. But the pièce-de-résistance of every room is the 12 metre-squared floor-to-ceiling window that stretches from the bathroom to the bedroom. Thanks to this vast window you can enjoy the sensational views of the Rendl Mountain from the comfort of your bed, or your bathtub.
The entire hotel was tastefully decorated and very personally managed. Every day the staff would bring in beautiful, new flower arrangements that complimented the homey feeling of the hotel. What’s more, every morning you are woken with a smell of roasting coffee beans emanating from the dining room, which is a sure fire way of getting everyone out of bed in bright spirits.
All in all St. Anton is a wonderful place to visit and I thoroughly recommend the Lux Alpinae hotel. The entire trip managed to fulfil my little fantasy of what a great ski trip should be. Need I say more?
CONTACT:
Lux Alpinae Hotel,
St. Anton Arlberg,
Austria,
+43 544 630108
www.luxalpinae.at
