For those venturing into the world's largest medina for the first time, let us offer a few words of advice. First, don't worry about getting lost – that's half of the fun. Second, the meandering labyrinth of alleyways conveniently slopes downwards from west to east, so continuing downhill will bring you to one of the lower gates where petit taxis dutifully await. Worst-case scenario, one of the local youths will gladly point you in the right direction for a few dirhams. Finally, if you would like a guide, it’s always better to hire an official one through a hotel or tourist office.
For the most natural place to begin your foray into this living web of sights, sounds and smells, go to Bab Boujeloud. The brightly tiled gate in the west of the city is the de facto main entrance and provides a path to the landmarks hidden within – the first of which is the magnificent Bou Inania Madrasa. Originally built by the Marinids in the mid-14th century, this madrasa and mosque complex has been extensively restored and is endowed with some of the most exquisite decorative wood and stucco carvings you’ll see in a city that isn’t short on wonder.
Several hundred metres further down Talaa Kebira, fittingly in the heart of the Medina, is the University of Al-Karaouine. Founded in 859 CE, it is considered by many (including UNESCO and the Guinness Book) to be the oldest degree-granting institution in the world. The sprawling premises are also home to what was, until recently, the largest mosque in all of Africa, which can comfortably hold 20,000 worshippers beneath a sea of rippling green pyramidal roofs.
From Al-Karaouine, you can virtually follow your nose to the medina's other major must-see sight, the honeycombed compound of dye-stained tanneries. Best viewed from the terraces and windows of adjacent buildings, if you have a weak stomach be warned that even from this height the odours wafting up from below can be overwhelming.
Perhaps we are too captivated by Fez, but this doesn't mean we spend all our time wandering around the medina, lost in reverie. We have to admit that for us, no trip is complete without playing at least one round at the Fez Royal Golf Club, situated 15km out of town on an immaculate oasis-like estate designed by renowned landscaper and golf course designer, Cabell Robinson. A visit to one of Fez's many first-class hammams is mandatory, as is an evening out strolling the wide boulevards of the French-style Ville Nouvelle.
When it comes to accommodation, Fez goes from strength to strength. Dozens of traditional Moroccan courtyard homes called riads have been meticulously restored and opened as boutique hotels in recent years. For somewhere romantic, you might try Riad Fes on Derb Ben Slimane or the contemporary chic of the Palais Amani on Derb el Mitr, which has its own hammam and sap but if you prefer to stay at a brand name, try the Sofitel Palais Jamaï. Located in the opulent former home of the Sultan's vizier, it comes with a garden setting and unbeatable views from its hillside perch. Need we say more?
Magical is not a word that I use with much frequency or throw around wantonly for effect, but no other term describes Fez adequately. Gazing out over the city at dusk as thousands of birds dance across the rooftops and the call to prayer emanates from hundreds of minarets below is a magical experience, if there ever was one.
WHAT Fez
WHERE Morocco
DESCRIPTION Fez is Morocco's second largest city and the cultural, spiritual and academic heart of the nation
WHY With its many restaurants, great hotels, winding medina streets and magical history, the former capital of Morocco is an irresistible and charming destination.
