12 Up & Coming Designers
1. Albino – cocktail/evening wear
Albino, a designer who cut his teeth at Emanuel Ungaro, Pucci, Versace, and Dolce & Gabbana, has managed to create a novel line in Italian fashion, which is clean, sophisticated and cool. His passion for French haute couture is evident in his fall collection, which featured such colours as dark charcoal, deep purple and a hint of raspberry. If you are looking for a stylish cocktail mini dress, he is the go-to designer. Opt for the bandeau-style numbers that drape beautifully, complimenting the female silhouette.
2. Jerome C. Rousseau – evening/contemporary shoes
Born in Quebec, this LA-based designer started at London’s Cordwainers College before then honing his design skills at Matthew Williamson and John Rocha. Jerome C. Rousseau’s 15-style debut collection varied in designs and colours. The most notable pieces were the peep-toe silk ankle boots with a metallic heel accent; chic stilettos in mocha-coloured crocodile leather, and a suede block-heeled court shoe in black, red and purple. The aesthetic appeal of his shoes remains unmatched with many hailing him as an assured star of the future.
3. Alexis Mabille – cocktail/evening wear
Prior to his 10-year stint at Dior, 31-year old Frenchman, Alexis Mabille, finessed his design skills at Emanuel Ungaro and Nina Ricci. His latest collection, which debuted at Selfridges in autumn, introduces elegant and modern eveningwear. Standing out above others were the dove grey sequined pyjama pants teamed with a crisp white shirt, along with the prim macramé neckline cocktail dress with the ivory silk hem. Mabille has also released a daywear collection, a costume jewellery line for Yves Saint Laurent and a bowtie collection under the label Treizeor.
4. Joanna Sykes – luxury/contemporary street wear
Joanna Sykes’ collection is made up of chic wardrobe staples in super luxurious fabrics. Particular favourites were the leather biker jacket, cashmere hooded gilet, silk t-shirts and the perfect pea coat. Her first collection is undoubtedly androgynous with items cut in mannish, outsized proportions, yet the fabrics retain a strong femininity. The silk shirt, with delicate tulle detailing around the cuffs best illustrates this balance. 29-year old Sykes, a Central Saint Martins graduate and former designer for Alberta Ferretti, has given urban street wear a new lavish edge.
5. Mattijs – cocktail/evening wear
Mattijs is another important designer to emerge from Central Saint Martins. Graduating just over a year ago, he decided to set up on his own despite receiving offers from Gucci amongst others. He began designing at Viktor & Rolf and currently spends his time between Amsterdam and London. His debut collection, due in stores this August, featured sensational dresses with a focus on sunray pleats. Two such standout dresses were the caramel coloured example, featuring an oversized pleated section, and the rose halter-neck dress with gold metallic creases.
6. Meadham Kirchoff – luxury/contemporary
Anyone who loves the younger, grungier side of Chanel will love Meadham Kirchoff.
Ripe talents, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff, channelled their creativity into an aggressive, feminine, sharp and sophisticated collection that was lauded by critics during the last London Fashion Week. There was a strong gothic feel with high neck shirts and long dresses featuring exposed stitching and jagged, black lace embroidered as patches. But it was the jackets that stole the show. One such example was the navy blue and black glittery mohair biker jacket.
7. Aude Lechère – fine jewellery
Though, Paris-based jeweller, Aude Lechère is actually French, she initially found success in America. Thanks to an article in W magazine in 2001, Lechère has been in high demand in the States ever since. Her one-off creations are a mixture of medieval heritage and contemporary inspiration. And while Lechère’s success attests to the demand of outsized cocktail rings, her finesse and attention to detail show her old-school artistry. She currently has five separate permanent collections that can be seen at either Barneys in New York or Ibu Gallery in Paris.
8. Angelo Katsapis – cocktail/evening wear
This Australian-born designer gained early experience at Giorgio Armani where he worked for five years as a senior designer while also launching the Armani Privé haute couture line. Now with the experience to go it alone, his design philosophy is to create extremely elegant clothing that fits the female form in a modern way. His sheer black silk blouses, high-waist pencil skirts and metallic black cocktail dresses adorned with lace, silk, and chunky zippers are just that. Elegance with a hard edge to say the least.
9. Zoraide – couture/evening shoes
Zoraide is a new brand of handmade Italian shoes designed by Milanese film producer, haute couture collector, and fashion consultant, Paola Bay. The manufacturing requires between two and four days per shoe and as such the numbers are very limited. Already exhibited at Paris’ Galliera Museum, nearly all models are made from the most exquisite antique textiles. This is definitely a shoe brand aimed at women who demand perfection, exclusivity and above all, luxury. Villa Moda is the only store in the region that currently stocks these shoes.
10. Sari Gueron – cocktail/evening wear
Prior to launching her own line, Sari Gueron did some stints at John Galliano and Oscar de la Renta. Her collection revolves around the concept of day-to-evening wear, by simply changing accessories. Gueron also designs full-length red-carpet destined gowns that have caught the attention of young Hollywood stars such as Scarlett Johansson, Michelle Williams, Natalie Portman and Chloe Sevigny. Gueron is arguably quite established in her own right but if you haven’t already heard of her, she is certainly a glamorous designer to look into.
11. Graeme Armour – sophisticated cocktail/party wear
Scottish-born Graeme Armour started his career at Cardonald College, studying design manufacture, before moving to London College of Fashion and then on to do a masters at Central Saint Martins. After a work-experience stint at Alexander McQueen, Armour was asked by the designer to work part-time in his studio, where he helped put together showpieces for catwalk collections. He ultimately launched his own label at last year’s London Fashion Week, which was well received, bringing him recognition and launching him as one to watch on the fashion stage.
12. Current Elliott – contemporary daywear
The hottest new denim label was launched last July by stylists-turned-designers Emily Current and Meritt Elliott. The collection’s spirit and style is firmly rooted in American fashion history, as the designers rehashed past denim classics to create vintage-inspired shapes. A particular favourite in the pants department is The Boyfriend, which is cropped and slightly baggy; there is also The Elephant Bell, replete with bell-bottoms, and the The Fontaine Short, which has an unfussy sexiness. In addition to perfect cuts it is the fabrics that set Current Elliot apart.
