Facing the Fanfare

Everywhere you look today fashion houses are front-and-centre of good living. None more so than Christian Lacroix. In his most recent incarnation with Falic Brothers – LVMH sold the Lacroix label to the number two US duty free retailer for an undisclosed amount in 2005 – the French designer has tightened his belt, axing off some of his lines and expanded into the lucrative lifestyle and design business. One of the first measures Falic Brothers implemented was to bring a more high-end structure to the marque by pulling its ready-to-wear lines, Bazaar and Jean Christian Lacroix, off the shelves for good. Lacroix was thus re-launched as a luxury destination, be it in the realm of clothing, a new concept shop, homewares, interior design and even elite water bottles.

Leading the cavalry is Nicolas Topiol, a former bond trader and treasurer at Standard Chartered Bank in France, and now president of the Christian Lacroix label and the man behind the purchase. “Its funny how life is,” says the amiable and energetic Topiol, “I actually wrote my thesis on the French haute-couture industry. I have always been interested in the industry, though I am not sure why.”

The Lacroix story is not one of overnight success yet there is something outwardly courageous about the designer. He has an unabashed ability to reinvent himself while remaining true to his identity. Now as part of the Falic clique – which include former LVMH acquisitions Hard Candy and Urban Decay cosmetics – can the French designer finally carve a niche for himself?

Christian Lacroix is still a relatively new haute-couture brand, celebrating 20 years this year. Somehow it feels much older, why do you think that is?

Nicolas Topiol: Why do I think it feels much older? That’s a good question. I have never been asked that question. I think it feels older for a couple of reasons. The first is that Christian Lacroix has been in haute-couture since the late 1970s and early 1980s. He started at Hermès but really launched himself in haute-couture in 1981 at a house called Jean Patou which no longer exists today in terms of fashion but there is still a fragrance and then the house of Christian Lacroix was created in 1987. The other is that Christian Lacroix is an extremely rich talent [and] receives quite a lot of coverage. I mean he is not as big as Dior or Chanel, but he is somebody that is liked by the press and whose work is very intricate and elaborate.

Lacroix went from two collections in 1987 to creating collections for homewares, designs for hotels and accessories within the first decade or so. Why has Lacroix decided to expand into different fashion fields?

NT: We’re still doing it. He is a true artist and designer and what is interesting with him is that when he touches on things outside of fashion, he does it well. He has designed two hotels in Paris, Le Petit Moulin and Le Bellechasse. It wasn’t like he was a couturier or a fashion designer coming into the world of interior design. He became an interior designer and was recognised [as such] by his peers and quickly gained momentum. Everything he touches, he invests himself in 100 per cent. It becomes a reality and it is as if he does only that. And I think that is the secret.

With Armani and Versace coming into the market, do you have any plans of designing a hotel in Dubai?

NT: Yes. [laughs]. To be honest with you I can only answer yes, yes. It’s happening now in terms of development. He will be involved with the interior.

Fashion, hotels, what is the next concept?

NT: We just [collaborated] with a [French] mail order catalogue called La Redoute. Last season they chose Christian Lacroix for some items in the ready-to-wear and collections for blankets, furniture, stuffed animals [and] mirrors. And they have actually asked us to do another collection for the Spring/Summer 2008. We would like to expand in the home market because he enjoys it and has a talent for it. So, why not?

Which do you think is Lacroix’s most successful collection in terms of design as well as in terms of sales?

NT: In terms of sheer volume and dollar amount, it was about 12 years ago when Bazaar was launched it worked very well and was something very new to the market. In terms of design there were two: haute-couture 2000 which was a very contemporary collection that was powerful and graphic and it was a shock to the fashion industry, but it was a turning point where he brought the brand into the twenty-first century. The second is this collection where in terms of colours it is a lot darker than the usual Lacroix people are used to.

Lacroix has designed a limited edition Evian bottle for Christmas. What was the logic behind it and do you think creating something as commercial may compromise the prestige of the Lacroix label?

NT: Very good question. We actually did two bottles for Evian: a ready-to-wear with one million produced and a second one which is the glass haute-couture of which only 99 [are] produced, [is] more like a carafe and is a much bigger bottle. It is a beautiful bottle that can be re-used. Evian is a premium brand even though it is not as premium in France as it is elsewhere.

Do you feel it has compromised the label?

NT: No, not at all.

How does it feel being president of Christian Lacroix and what do you hope to bring to the label?

NT: It feels very challenging and fascinating. Tiring and frustrating sometimes. But I am very happy to be a part of this world. Working with Christian Lacroix is the experience of a lifetime.

Is it easy working with him?

NT: Yes. It’s just like any relationship, you need to find the right balance and there needs to be mutual respect.

How much was the purchase by Falic Brothers from LVMH for?

NT: That is classified information. [laughs]. We are a private company so we don’t need to reveal any figures.

Contacts

Christian Lacroix Beirut

24 Avenue du Parc

Tel +9611 972 588