As the plane dropped through the clouds, I could just make out the coast of Morocco. The deep blue sky and orange and red hues that painted the Atlas Mountains were a majestic contrast to the autumn grey and faded tones of central Europe I’d left behind a few hours before and sunlight seeped into my window as we landed at Marrakesh International.
As I stepped off the plane, my senses heightened. The warm air swirled around me as the golden sunset cast striking colours across the dimming sky. I exited customs and there was a discrete, impeccably dressed man in a beige suit holding a sign: ‘Palais Namaskar’. Floating just above the simple yet elegant typeface was an intricate eight point gold-embossed symbol. “Welcome to Marrakesh, Mr. Barney. Please follow me, the car is waiting,” the man said as he took my bag and guided me to the V-series Mercedes waiting a short distance away.
Our destination was about 40 minutes away. We took the main road into Marrakesh that follows the ancient walls of the medina. Without a honk of the horn, or a jostle of the car, we arrived at a pair of discrete gates, nestled in the countryside just outside the hectic city. Two young men wearing similar beige suits and ties awaited in the deserted street and a string of welcoming faces guided the car towards the main entry.
The five-star Palais Namaskar - as much oasis as hotel - only opened its doors this April yet its grounds overflow with the kind of dense flora and towering palm trees you’d expect of a mature garden. It’s a paradise of luscious vines and cascading flowers.
Although it’s located in a city of almost a million inhabitants that is known for its bustling centre and burgeoning market place, the hotel exudes serenity. It is designed according to a Feng Shui aesthetic and owner Philippe Soulier drew inspiration from the Chinese science as well as from his keen interest in philosophy and astrology. The architectural forms and details, most notably the many archways that separate the vast terrain into smaller, more intimate spaces, blend into the Moroccan landscape even as they transport you to Bali. Spread across 50,000 square metres of land, it’s easy to lose oneself. Strolling around the grounds, I didn’t once feel that another guest was too close, or that I couldn’t find a secluded palm tree-shaded corner to relax in.
Arriving at around six, I walked down the main path, enveloped by the sweet aromas of jasmine and bougainvillaea that filled the air. At Palais Namaskar, what would normally be the main corridor at any other hotel is rather a floating walkway in the middle of an expansive, shallow pool that connects the villas and residences. Each evening, a team of men set out large glass and metal lanterns that illuminate the passage for guests. Guided by candlelight, I was careful not to step off the stone path and watched the flames’ reflections flicker across the clear water.
The centremost building on the grounds contains the Palais’ opulently decorated lounge and restaurant. The lounge’s walls are dressed in billowing Italian fabrics and seating is positioned to create small, intimate areas. Numerous Murano chandeliers float overhead. Later, behind the towering mirrored cocktail bar, I found a majestic spiral staircase leading to the rooftop terrace but for now, I sit and as I do, a waiter glides forward to offer me a glass of Chateau Roslane, local wine produced in the nearby Atlas region. Leaning back to gain a sense of my surroundings, I see the ambient glow from Marrakesh to my right and to my left, the towering Atlas Mountains, which are slowly swallowing the sun. The sky, a brilliant red, fades into black. For a moment, all is silent and then, the faint sound of the call to prayer emanates from a distant mosque. The adhan echoes across the landscape and when it ends, all is again silent. I turn off my mobile phone and realise that here is a place where I might actually be able to disconnect.
The restaurant sits at the far end of the room, behind a fireplace that drops down from the ceiling. Scanning the menu, it appears to exemplify a mastery of la cuisine Française. No surprise for Chef Antoine Perray apprenticed under the legendary Alain Ducasse and honed his skills in major restaurants and hotels in Saint-Tropez, Paris and Macao. What is most particular about his choice of dishes though, is the way he blends traditional French cuisine, his specialty, with the local flavours and spices of Moroccan cooking. When I meet him in the restaurant a day later, Mr. Perray exudes refined confidence and an appreciation for the regional setting.
“Our cooking is simple, yet refined. Our style respects certain guidelines and boundaries and once those were fixed, I was able to experiment,” he tells me before simply explaining his decision to add a Moroccan twist to some of the greatest classics of French cuisine. “The local products and flavour palette are, for a chef, excellent things to work with.”
That night I tried one of the dishes that struck me most as a fusion of the two cultures: a roasted side of lamb tucked within a Moroccan kefta, accompanied by a cumin-spiced carrot purée. The textures matched perfectly and adding to the sophisticated local and French flavours. My first bite removed any doubts I may have had, however unconscious.
Palais Namaskar’s sense of tranquillity is heightened by its sense of escape and purification. Their spa for instance, has established a unique relationship with Guerlain, one of France’s oldest perfumers, which provides them with holistic skin care products made from a refined selection of natural extracts and aromas. The spa itself is located down a few steps and across an aroma-infused walkway lined with bamboo stalks, with water trickling between the greenery and the stone path. Its suites, large enough for couples, are dimly lit and simply decorated and are equipped with sitting areas, a traditional hammam, a wading pool and a cosy fireplace.
Throughout the hotel, expertly crafted interiors, sitting areas and water features, blur the line between indoors and out. My room, one of the pool suites, was a palace in itself. The bedroom extended beyond the walls and into a private garden with lounging area. The majestic living room opened onto a sun-drenched patio and private swimming pool. Reflections from the sparkling water of my own personal oasis, large enough for a small gander of swimmers, painted the exterior of the building. Indonesian-inspired archways hung with translucent fabric and patches of dense bamboo separate terraces from each other and the two rows of living quarters are separated in the middle by an elegant waterscape, interspersed with islands of potted palms and flowering plants. Zen is something of an understatement.
I don’t turn my mobile again until I leave the Palais’ gates three days later. Relaxed, almost to the point of inebriation, I don’t really notice life outside the paradise I have just visited. A truly serene retreat, the Namaskar has pulled off a difficult feat and has managed to splice Asian-style serenity with the stunning Moroccan landscape in a way that feels natural, even logical. Its careful attentions leave you relaxed and breathing easier and I emerge with a sense of newfound clarity and contentment that I attribute entirely to my stay.
WHAT Palais Namaskar
WHERE Marrakesh, Morocco
FIGURES Almost 5 hectares of gardens with 29 rooms and suites, 10 villas and two palaces, the prices start at 500 USD a night.
WHY Close enough to the city for action but in an area remote enough for true escape, the sense of peace, space and exclusivity are simply fantastic.
