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How Something Fundamental Has Shifted in Women's Fashion This Season

Something has fundamentally changed in women's fashion, and nobody is quite sure how. We explore whether it stems from a post-lockdown desire to be seen, a response to legislation, or a raising of the bar.

26 Oct 2023 By Official Bespoke 4 min read
How Something Fundamental Has Shifted in Women's Fashion This Season

Intro

Something fundamentally changed in women’s fashion lately. We’re not quite sure how it happened. Maybe it was the post-lockdown and post-restrictions sentiment of wanting to be “seen” in the world again. Perhaps it was a form of revulsion against new legislation in the US restricting women’s autonomy of their bodies. One could possibly even argue it was an attempt to raise the bar after Saudi authorities relaxed their longstanding strict dress codes for women. Regardless of the reason, the consequence has been a dramatic increase in clothing that embraces the hyper-feminine and body-baring trend of sheer mesh panelling. Incredibly though, this trend – which is as rife in underwear as it is outwear and swimwear – didn’t originate at one of the major fashion houses, as is usually the case. Instead, its roots can be traced back to the viral popularity of small, independent up-starts like Nensi Dojaka and God Save Queens (the former being a lingerie-inspired womenswear label that was started in 2017 by a London-based Albanian, and the latter a Polish lingerie brand founded in 2014), and of course their celebrity endorsements from such high profile clients as Bella Hadid, Zendaya and Kendall Jenner. But, with Nensi Dojaka going on to earn the prestigious LVMH prize and British Fashion Foundation award, GSQ (which is the brainchild of Karolina Preiss, née Bernaciak) has for us at least, remained an obsession that we can’t seem to get over.

What inspired you to establish God Save Queens?

[Karolina Preiss] The decision came in a very natural way. At first, I didn't consider God Save Queens a business, it was a creative outlet. But the lack of availability of designs that could make women feel confident and fearless, while still being feminine, made me realise I had a unique vision.

Can you explain how you came up with the name?

The name God Save Queens is a reference to the idea of female empowerment and a play on the proclamation “God Save the Queen.” I wanted a name that would capture the brand's mission of empowerment, confidence, sensuality, and fearlessness.

How Something Fundamental Has Shifted in Women's Fashion This Season

Which brands or designers have been most influential to your approach?

I have always been inspired by the work of Jean Paul Gaultier and Alaïa, both of whom pushed boundaries and challenged traditional notions of fashion. I am also influenced by brands like La Perla who create lingerie that is both luxurious and feminine.

Do you design with a certain customer or muse in mind?

I design for all women; I don't have a specific muse in mind but am inspired by women who are unapologetic in their femininity and embrace their sensuality.

What do you believe are the keys to your brand's success?

We are constantly pushing boundaries and exploring the fine line between lingerie and outerwear, and I think that sets us apart from other brands. But, I would credit our unique vision, high-quality craftsmanship, and our ability to encourage women to feel confident and fearless.

How Something Fundamental Has Shifted in Women's Fashion This Season

Exactly. For us, GSQ is like a Batman suit for women precisely because it makes us feel powerful and fearless. Do you think such an approach could lend itself to a ‘God Save Kings’ or a male extension?

Empowering women was a deliberate strategy from the beginning – we wanted to create lingerie that makes women feel like they can conquer the world, and I believe that this has been a key factor in our success. As for a “God Save Kings” or a male extension of the brand, we don’t have any plans yet, as we’re focused on continuing our mission for women through lingerie and ready-to-wear collections.

Your liberal use of see-through mesh has become such a signature for the brand, but you began using it well before the trend went mainstream. How will you stay ahead of the game moving forward?

We’re constantly exploring new materials and techniques to stay ahead of the game and maintain our signature style. We also pay attention to emerging trends in the fashion world, but we always make sure to put our own unique spin on them.

You started with lingerie then made dresses and swimwear and now have pivoted into leather handbags too, what’s next?

How Something Fundamental Has Shifted in Women's Fashion This Season

We are always looking for new opportunities to grow and expand the brand. We recently launched our leather handbag collection as well as handcrafted shoes, and we are currently exploring new product categories that align with our vision.

Your sales strategy has focussed exclusively on e-commerce, will that remain the case, or do you foresee opening your own stores and/or distributing through retailers?

We have found great success through our e-commerce strategy, as it allows us to reach customers all over the world and provide them with our products conveniently and efficiently. However, we’re always looking for ways to expand our reach and make our brand more accessible to customers, for example we are currently partnering with some select retailers like Revolve and ASOS.

What are your next ambitions for the brand? What do you hope to attain within the next five years?

We aim to continue growing and expanding while maintaining our commitment to quality and unique design. In the next five years, we hope to further establish ourselves as a global brand and continue to push the boundaries of lingerie and ready-to-wear fashion. At the same time, we have plans to expand our accessories line and explore new product categories that can help propel our message.

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