Patek Philippe is one of those enviable brands that can seemingly do no wrong. Demand for the 70,000 or so watches they produce a year far outstrips supply, and they managed to surpass 2 billion CHF (2.25 billion USD) in sales for the first time last year (2023), up from 1.2 billion in 2020, 1.5 billion in 2021, and 1.8 billion 2022.
Incredibly, even when they court controversy, whether by introducing divisive new watches like the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time (Ref. 5524) in 2015, the Cubitus (Ref. 5821) this year, or cancelling an incredibly popular watch like the stainless-steel Nautilus (Ref. 5711), consumer demand doesn’t waiver. But what you need to understand is that this is their standard operating procedure; they simply don’t pander to the masses, and we should be thankful for that. A perfect example of this behaviour is how they’ve been safeguarding niche arts since day one (in 1839). In fact, the venerated Geneva maison has been one of the few brands to have ceaselessly nurtured talent in the field of micro-decorative arts, and though there has been a resurgence in demand for ‘Rare Handcraft’ products, that wasn’t always the case. As a matter of fact, demand declined to the point that artistic watches almost became extinct in the 1970s and 1980s but the brand clearly sees itself as something of a custodian of the arts, as it never stopped employing specialised artisans or producing artistic watches and as a result it has been a key player in the preservation of this savoir-faire.
The latest annual ‘Rare Handcraft’ exhibition was held at Patek Philippe’s Rue du Rhone salon during the Watches & Wonders fair and we got to see it all firsthand, appreciating how talented the artisans who spend hundreds of hours per piece really are. This year’s vibrant collection comprised 82 works including 27 dome clocks, three table clocks, nine pocket watches and 43 wristwatches, showcasing the pinnacle of enamelling, miniature painting, gem setting, engraving, marquetry, and guilloché – arts that require years of apprenticeship to master. Almost all the 82 pieces were sold before the exhibition even began so it’s a privilege to see them as a single, unified collection but it also helps show how there were three themes this year: one dedicated to the zodiac, another to nature and landscapes (hosted, rather fittingly, in a room overlooking Lake Geneva and its famous Jet d’Eau) and finally one to culture, art and sports. So mesmerising is the art on display that it’s easy to forget the mastery besides the decoration including some of the world’s finest minute repeaters, tourbillons, and clockworks.
A particular highlight was the Ref. 5089G-129 ‘Morning on the Beach,’ (opposite and top left), which features a dial made of wood marquetry depicting a young surfer approaching the waves with a board tucked under his arm. Apparently, there are 100 veneer parts and 75 inlays comprising 23 species of wood in different colours, textures and veining so it’s little wonder that only ten examples of this white gold Calatrava have been made. Still, there are other Calatravas in the collection, such as the rose gold Ref. 5089R-001’Billiards’ (top middle), which contains around 60 centimetres of gold wire in the design of its dial, not to mention some astonishing opaque and translucent shadings. For example, look at the 3D effects on the balls and in the background, especially above the hand of the man taking his shot; there is actually solar guilloché engraving covered by enamel in order to achieve that extra texture. Then the last Calatrava we wanted to highlight is the Ref. 5089G-146 ‘American Beauty’ (top right), which portrays the fin of a 1959 Cadillac Series 62 Coupé in one of many Americana artworks in the collection.
Besides the wristwatches, it’s the larger real estate of the dome clocks that are perhaps the best canvases for Patek’s artisans. Often known as anniversary clocks, the shape of these clocks was inspired by classic celestial observatories, and that’s rather fitting considering their intricate exteriors are so otherworldly.
All in all, touring Patek Philippe’s ‘Rare Handcraft’ collection is something so special that we can only imagine how amazing it must be to own any one of these rare beauties.
