Saudi Arabia is far from a mainstay on the global fashion scene. The kingdom has only had a fashion week since 2018, and virtually no Saudi designer has ever attained global recognition – with the notable exception of Ashi, whose atelier is headquartered in Beirut even though he hails from Saudi Arabia.
Yet the people of Saudi have been fashion forward for many years now – they’re considered hugely important buyers of couture, they’re nearly all intimately cognisant of the latest fashion trends and they’ve developed tremendous refinement. So it was only a matter of time before the Kingdom could lay claim to its own homegrown fashion designers, spearheaded by a new generation of Saudis eager to explore their own fashion traditions filtered through a lens of 21st sensibility. “Saudi is a country with a very rich culture and historical beauty,” says Saudi fashion designer Arwa Al Banawi. “It is only natural that within a rich culture, artists will grow from there.”
Al Banawi blends her Eastern and Western perspectives to create clothes with a Saudi identity and global appeal. “I grew up in Jeddah, studied finance, worked in banking for a year, then moved to a more creative job to work in Brownbook magazine,” says Al Banawi when reflecting upon her professional journey. “It was very inspiring working with the founders Rashed and Ahmed bin Shabib. They are very smart, cultured individuals who made Brownbook a real collective book. After I left my job it inspired me to want to launch my own brand.”
Even though she studied finance and first worked in banking and publishing, Al Banawi knew since she was eight years of age that she wanted to pursue a career in fashion. So, upon leaving Brownbook, she changed gears and went for it. “I took courses at London College of Fashion [in Dubai] and started the brand in 2015,” she says.
Based between Dubai and Jeddah, the Arwa Al Banawi label offers outfits suited for both night-time and daytime, with pieces that women can mix and match for various occasions. “I always stick to the identity of the brand,” says Al Banawi. “It’s structured, androgynous silhouettes with feminine and effortless lines and cuts as well. I always want to design for the woman we call ‘the suitable woman.’ She’s the woman on the go, beautiful, confident and effortlessly chic. I make designs that make her feel empowered.” Most recently, Al Banawi also launched a Saudi-based line, produced in the kingdom with Nesma Embroidery.
In terms of inspiration, Al Banawi looks to her Saudi heritage, the places she’s lived outside Saudi and her travels when designing her clothes. “I get inspired from everything around me,” she says. “I feel when I design I’m giving a piece of my soul as it’s very emotional and theatrical work. I get inspired by art, food, people, nature – it’s all a part of my creative process, even music. I also get inspiration from my travels, whether it be Germany or Switzerland. I grew up a lot around that urban alternative culture, and a European touch is also present and merged in my brand.”
To keep her designs varied and fresh, Al Banawi likes to collaborate with other creatives. “I commissioned two artist – Layla Kardan and Majeed – last year to make me a music track,” she says. “I chose them based on my admiration for their work and their music. We collaborated for my brand. I also work with artisans for fabrics.”
Al Banawi currently shows her designs in Paris and sells in boutiques and department stores in London and across the Middle East region. Her latest collection, for spring/summer 2020, is titled ‘Alasafar’ in a nod to travel. “It’s inspired by the independent, strong woman,” she says. “A lot of the pieces are made to fit right into a suitcase, with fun trench coats and easy dresses and suits.” Many of the pieces from the new collection are quite unique. “I love the purple trench,” says Al Banawi. “It’s called ‘Au Revoir My Love.’ And the first look, the crooked blue blazer with a white lapel.”
Next up for the label? A stand-alone boutique in Al Banawi’s native Saudi Arabia. “I take so much inspiration from my country,” she says. “And I’m proud to be a designer from Saudi.”
