Belle Epoque in design yet highly modern in spirit, San Sebastián first came to prominence in the mid-1800s when Queen Isabella II began coming here in a quest to seek relief from a skin ailment in the icy Atlantic waters. Followed as she was by much of the aristocracy of the time, San Sebastián quickly became a favoured summer retreat for Madrid’s well-to-do. Today, the place remains ever popular and now comprises the Parte Vieja – or Old Town – where you find most of the nightlife, the Centro, which is the chicest district of Spain's chicest town, and its antidote – Gros, with its laid-back, surfer culture. The food scene here is just as wide ranging too, covering the full culinary spectrum from sophisticated three-star Michelin restaurants, of which there are 16, to humble pintxos bars, pronounced “peen-cho”, which serve edible treasures on a stick.
Pintxos are a big deal in San Sebastián and the way to do them like a local, is to crawl from one bar to the next, either at lunchtime or in the evening, and sample each eatery's speciality dishes and drinks. Lunch times are for lighter options, whilst dinners are almost Michelin worthy. Therefore, as the midday sun sets in, head to Kaskazuri for some of their signatures such as peppers stuffed with salt cod, or wander over to Bodegón Alejandro for some heart-warming game meats, apple pie with rosemary trifle and lemon thyme ice-cream, or a selection of local cheeses like Bidearte, Txapalak, Pikuñeta and Urdina. And as a side of local trivia, know that this dimly lit hideaway is where Michelin-star chef Martín Berasategui learned his trade at the tender age of 13, when his parents ran the restaurant.
As day turns to dusk, slip into something stylish and head to award-wining Arzak, a triple-Michelin-starred restaurant that consistently ranks among the best in the world. Chef Juan Mari Arzak has been a major influence on Spanish cuisine for more than 30 years and eating here is an experience you won’t forget. If you fail to book a table at Arzak, try Mugaritz, a double-Michelin-starred restaurant run by Andoni Luis Aduriz. Forget French food supremacy, for the eight-course degustation menu here proves a hearty masterwork that fills you with memories that can last a lifetime.
In between fantastic food and sensational sangria, try to make room for more pintxos with a nice little walk: promenades and pathways lead up the hills that surround the city and it’s definitely the best way to see the sights. When you are ready to rest your head, check into the five-star Maria Cristina, the grande dame of San Sebastián hotels, designed by Charles Mewès, of Ritz Paris fame.
And if you’re flexible with your dates, we definitely recommend coming during the Santo Tomás festival (December 21st), which is a street market specialising in sausages, cheeses and honey, or on January 20th when the city commemorates its patron saint, Sebastián. It’s like an amusement park for your palate.
