A barely audible yet discernibly beautiful song by Abdel Halim Hafez lures you to enter the dimly lit entrance of the legendary Marrakesh-based restaurant, Le Comptoir Darna. Sitting on the grand staircase that leads to the lounge area above is a group of traditionally dressed musicians playing Arabic classics. They strum out the songs while arriving guests socialise and sip on aperitifs. The beguiling music is not too loud to be bothering yet it invites you to traverse the landing in order to admire the musicians’ fine skills from up close.
“My name is Hiba and I’ll be your waitress tonight,” declares a stunning girl in a bright red traditional dress. With a big smile she hands out the Moroccan-French menu. It features traditional couscous and tagine (a Moroccan stew) and pastilla (a pastry of diced squab topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar) alongside French haute-cuisine such as cote du boeuf.
Located in Marrakech’s new city, the decor is a classy mix of Moroccan traditional and modern-international chic. This is a restaurant-bar-boutique where you can interrupt your dinner to browse the funky Moroccan accessories available in the establishment’s little shop. Food is served until 1 o’clock in the morning out on the patio as well as on the summer terrace. The atmosphere is mysterious and sexy, the staff is attentive and without attitude.
Plenty of international celebrities have walked through these doors but most of the customers are usually Moroccan. “It’s the Casablanca jet-set that comes to Marrakech for the weekend. We don’t want to be a touristy spot,” says Fred Pantel, Comptoir’s French manager. Marrakech may be a booming tourist destination but this place is reserved only for well-heeled visitors that are keen to dine and party away from the backpackers.
Le Comptoir can be best described as the Parisian Buddha Bar meets Beirut’s Music Hall with its extensive entertainment program. “We have oriental bands, jazz bands; the program varies,” says Pantel, explaining that the program is often announced through Facebook.
At around 11 o’clock, the music suddenly got a lot louder and two women in traditional dress elegantly walked down the stairs each carrying on their heads a tray full of burning candles and a teapot. They made a tour around the tables before shimmying into the central area.
Thereupon the music changed and a troupe of belly dancers ran down the staircase. Arms elegantly raised, their seductive eyes catching you off guard, the girls then danced through the entire restaurant. Meanwhile the dinner service continues. Hiba is always on hand sometimes even assisting some of the more voluptuous dancers climb atop the tables. The dancers’ sequined dresses twirl so close to your face they almost touch your nose. The impression is very personalised as they perform their short, sharp hip movements millimetres from your very eyes. Long, dark wavy hair sways through the air perfectly in tempo with the sensual moves of their upper bodies. The dance repertoire includes a few different choreographies including Spanish, Lebanese and Indian and by the time the girls stop to take a rest, their costumes are filled with appreciative customers’ banknotes.
By the time you have had time to get over the intense belly dances, you will be summoned upstairs by the sounds of a percussionist upstairs in the lounge. Creating an Arabic beat with a seductive rhythm, it is a subtle invitation to settle the restaurant bill and move on upstairs for cocktails in the bar. This is after all where you can enjoy the performance of a live Lebanese singer. Once the performance is over you are greeted to the sights of a couple of belly dancers before a DJ, fusing the occident with the orient, rounds off the night.
This summer, Le Comptoir will be celebrating its 10th anniversary. For the past decade, this has been one of the most attractive spots in Marrakech and no doubt it will continue be so for many years to come. Le Comptoir is where you can fulfil all your oriental fantasies.
CONTACT
Le Comptoir Darna,
Avenue Echouhada,
Marrakesh, Morocco
Tel: +212 524 437702
www.comptoirdarna.com/
