The modern necktie has been around since the 19th century, although it has constantly evolved in subtle ways with widths and lengths altering according to trends and tastes. Though there are a number of ways to tie a necktie, the absolute rule of thumb is that the tip of the wide end should touch the belt, and the narrow end should be roughly the same length. If they are not, try changing your knot or alter the length of the ties you are buying. Below is a rough guideline according to body types.
The Classic
The classic tie should be 9cm in width and no less than 132cm in length. This is a risk free formula as most off the rack jackets have 9cm lapels and your necktie width should relate accordingly. There is no excuse to be made for wearing a polyester tie. Your necktie should only be made from either wool or silk.
Tall Guy
Taller men should seek out the longer neckties. Long ties can normally be found in lengths of up to 147cm. If that is not sufficient then you try ordering a bespoke tie from Drakes of London. Another modification taller men can make is to increase the width of the tie to 11cm. Of course the lapel should also be increased, and amongst others, Tom Ford has been playing with this look in his latest collection.
Short Guy
Shorter men can get away with slimmer neckties, as these will create a lengthening look. If you feel like pushing the boundaries there are 6cm width ties available at select stores such as Hermès or alternatively try knitted flat-bottom ties, available at most stores, as these normally come with a uniform width of 6cm. Narrow ties should be combined with narrow lapelled suits and Lanvin is a brand that has been doing these for decades.
