Okay so perhaps 57 Euros for a portion of foie gras, 70 Euros for asperges (asparagus), 57 Euros for cuisses de grenouilles (frogs’ legs) and 76 Euros for a poulet de Bresse (whole roast chicken) are far from the deal of the century. But before you are deterred, at least be aware of the portions, because L’Ami Louis - perhaps Paris’ finest bistro - is well known for that. Bountiful would be an understatement. This is the way it has always been, ever since 1930 when Antoine Magnin created the capital’s most famous bistro.
Diners who frequented the establishment before the late 1980s grew familiar with the sight of Magnin working away near his wood burning oven. Indeed that is where he was always to be found until just a week before he passed away in 1987, at the ripe old age of 86. While his legacy lives on, the place does have its fair share of detractors. No one could possibly criticise the food of course, but you could make a fair argument that there is better value for money to be found elsewhere in the city. But if the best is what you seek, then look no further. Don’t be surprised if the prices have gone up again though as they are always steadily escalating.
These days the restaurant is run by the aptly named maître d'hôtel, Louis Gadby. The décor is exactly as it always was, purposefully shabby. The new owner, Thierry de la Brosse made that promise to the celebrated founder when he bought it in 1986. He guaranteed to keep the establishment exactly as it always was and clearly he has been good to his word. The waiters are snooty and hostile and the walls are truly in need of a fresh coat of paint, but that is beside the point once you sample the cooking.
Incredulously L’Ami Louis has never been included in the Michelin Guide but that may have something to do with the fact that the bistro is located in one of the least fashionable neighbourhoods of Paris. It is far removed from the part of the Marais that has become chic. Therefore you should plan carefully because getting a reservation is no easy feat and you don’t want to be wandering the area while you wait for a table. The key is to plan in advance, after all this is the sort of place everyone should try at least once (especially the esteemed readers of Bespoke).
Certainly the people who frequent this bistro are no small fry. On any given night you will find some sheikhs, perhaps a head of state, some oligarchs and quite a number of look-at-my-lolly-garchs fighting over who pays a bill that typically includes the most coveted liquid refreshments from Bourgogne.
The gigantic côte de boeuf may not impress those used to US steakhouse portions but half a kilo of foie gras on your plate served with a mountain of matchstick potatoes leaves one wondering. Try the Coquilles Saint Jacques à la Provençal or the cuisses de grenouilles. The roast chicken is also a must; it comes with a potato cake covered with minced garlic and parsley.
I doubt you will have any room left for cheese and dessert, but what the heck, who’s watching his line anyway? It will be a meal that you will never forget – that is a promise!
L'Ami Louis
32 Rue du Vertbois, 3eme, Paris
+33 148877748
