With visions of Julie Andrews twirling through Alpine vistas, and men in black suits shuttling austerely between banks, I am somewhat dubious of my imminent sojourn to the invigorating climes of Ascona in Switzerland. So famous are the picture-postcard images of the country’s snowy mountain peaks and lush hillsides that I wonder if much else awaits in the famously neutral European state besides scenery and chocolate. If Bollywood films are anything to go by, I’ve probably seen most of the scenery that Switzerland has to offer, and surely, the joys of raclette and fondue can only go so far. As I take flight toward Milan, a short road trip away from the busy Swiss-Italian border retreat of Ticino, I weigh up my itinerary at the Hotel Eden Roc & Spa.
Within hours of flying over the lands of Sprüngli chocolate and Mont Blanc, the views from my Etihad window seat become more captivating with each soaring moment. Chains of snowy mountains stretch infinitesimally towards the curve of the earth, dwarfing the clouds that nestle up to their craggy outgrowths. The sky is icy blue, like a sheet of silvery, azure film against the verdant pastures and valleys below. A lustrous sun dapples the myriad rivers weaving through the countryside like spilled India Ink and lakes appear like gargantuan puddles of Lapis Lazuli with swarms of terracotta homes speckling their borders. Without my noticing it, my doubts about the country’s allure begin to fade away.
The Eden Roc has established itself as one of the most exclusive Swiss hotels to holiday at. Founded by Karl-Heinz Kipp - a fixture on the Forbes billionaire list - the hotel is just one of four excellent estates in the Tschuggen Hotel Group. On asking passers-by for directions, the address elicits raised eyebrows and high-pitched exclamations of approval. And for good reason. The hotel takes its leisure business seriously. On deciding to build a spa at the property, the Eden Roc closed down for nearly six months, creating an integrated water world-style environ, allowing guests to approach it in privacy from their rooms or the adjoining gardens. A subterranean channel of corridors leads to a shimmering sanarium, baths and saunas, with private areas for men and women. In a timely move, a further 10.8 million USD was spent on creating 16 rooms in the adjacent Hotel Eden Roc Marina. Since it opened in April, the hotel has enjoyed no less than 80 per cent occupancy. Despite a recession, the wicked still need their rest.
With warm and inviting interiors, the hotel evokes a style that’s unpretentious yet stately, with boutique and designer stores nestling under Palazzo ceilings and antique Italian chandeliers. Several corners of the Eden Roc are wrapped in glass, inviting abundant sunlight into the lounges and common areas. The hotel’s signature restaurants open onto uninterrupted views of the Ticino mountain range and Lake Maggiore. The scent of Jasmine and camphor waft through the corridors and palm trees sway lazily in the gardens outside. The Eden Roc is perfectly spacious, which is apt for families or groups wishing to enjoy the gardens, restaurants or the private beach, yet it retains cosy corners and balcony seats for those wishing to enjoy some intimacy in the lake’s scenic splendour.
On asking the Ascona locals what there is to do in town, they reply chirpily, ‘Not much!’ But that’s the point. Ascona is an opportunity to relax, to watch the sky change colour from blue-grey to flamingo pink and indigo. But at the hotel, doing nothing takes willpower. There’s an adjoining golf course and beach running alongside the lake, should I wish to get my heart pacing. A variety of water-friendly vessels are on hand should I desire to speed across the clear, chilly waters of Lake Maggiore. For picnicking or hiking, a network of paths leads from the hotel through pine and cedar-lined roads along the Maggia River. For cerebral pursuits, I can choose between a session with a resident life coach or a visiting stock market specialist, followed by a vineyard and cigar tour. And if my children might preclude me from enjoying these thoughtful excursions, the Eden Roc has a fully-fledged crèche and nursery to keep them meaningfully entertained. If that weren’t already enough, Ascona’s vibrant musical, sports, cultural and culinary festivals pull tourists into the Eden Roc’s inviting arms, throughout the year. It’s sufficient to make visitors want to live here. And that’s exactly the hotel owner’s sentiment; the Eden Roc is officially Mr Kipp’s permanent residence.
Spectacularly, not an hour’s flight away, Zürich is enduring bitter winds and thunderstorms. Ticino on the other hand, is being regaled with glorious sunshine in its Alp-afforded microclimate. Taking to the country on a bicycle, I find myself riding comfortably through expansive vineyards and leafy cloisters, winding alleys and historic sites. Foraying into nearby Locarno, I take a five-minute funicular ride up a hill, bracing myself for panoramic views from the imposing Madonna del Sasso church. Protruding from a cliff face, the church provides breathtaking views of the lakes and mountains I’ve just ridden along. On my way back to Ascona, centuries old, wood-beam and stone houses line up among historic castles and converted chateau structures. Bell-towers and churches peep out from Ticino’s narrow streets, and couples and families stroll about enjoying a gelato or buying cheese, while motorboats and yachts bob peacefully by the harbourside.
After my five-hour jaunt, I book in at the hotel for an Eden Roc massage – a comprehensive rub down by a physiotherapist that includes a facial, a foot reflex massage with aromatic oils, Hawaiian hot stone therapy and a full-body pampering to last no less than 75 glorious minutes. Emerging elated and walking on invisible clouds, I make my way to the 16-point, Gault-Millau rated La Brezza restaurant, which specialises in sublime nouveau European cooking. Taking a balcony seat in time for the sunset, I am treated to a divine four-course meal of tomato tartlet with goat’s cheese, an entrée of conchiglie with capers, olives and shrimp, and a main of French guinea fowl, wrapped in bacon with apricots and chanterelles. After a Laurent Perrier aperitif and generous helpings of the delicately fruity yet robust Ticino white wine, Carisma, I end a perfectly heady day of exercise, relaxation and scrumptious dining with a dessert that presents chocolate in five innovative preparations. Needless to say, I retire to my room, completely satiated, in awe of an inky night that is illuminated only by a dispersion of lights in distant hillside homes.
The Eden Roc offers a delectable blend of Swiss punctiliousness, Italian charm and French style. The beauty of its location is that it offers a world of five-star hospitality in the heart of natural beauty, old world locales and superb shopping and dining. There’s a palpable sense of healthy yet pampered living on offer here, with retired couples or active families enjoying the hotel and Ascona with equal vigour. The town is inviting to all without exception and during the summer season, it comes alive with the excitement and hubbub of a truly loved lakeside retreat. Having the Eden Roc situated in this Riviera-esque location, helps redefine the experience of Swiss exuberance and relaxation by such mountainous viridity. Providing generous luxury and rejuvenating recreation, the Eden Roc ensures that no visitor can leave Ascona without desiring to return anon.
CONTACT
Hotel Eden Roc,
Via Albarelle 16
6612 Ascona, Switzerland
Tel +41 91 785 71 71
