This was clearly the thinking behind the Hotel Kempinski Ishtar, Jordan's newest Dead Sea getaway, which harks back to the palatial retreats of empires past.
Spanning over 120,000 square metres, Ishtar, whose guest-list includes heads-of-state and Hollywood stars, is nearly a city on its own. Its cobblestone streets are lined with rows of lavish villas, while gentle waterfalls and cascading tributaries run throughout the multileveled medina. And not unlike the most celebrated of cities of antiquity, an abundance of pools (nine to be specific) are never more than a few steps away. Each is marvellously designed to accentuate the pristine views through the use of 'infinity' run-off features.
At the heart of this oasis is an imposing Masonic-like temple, whose symmetrical column structure is reminiscent of King Solomon's. But Ishtar is named after the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, recreated through a fusion of lush landscaping at every turn. Amid the towering palms and aromatic gardenias, are manicured olive groves containing some trees apparently dating back over a thousand years. It is such attention to design detail that marks one of the Kempinski's greatest assets. Guests can easily spend a week at the hotel without swimming or sunbathing in the same perfectly secluded spot twice. In fact, the place is so massive that crowds don't ever seem to form anywhere. Make no mistake. This is not a singles' bar. It is a place for those seeking only the most refined relaxation by offering countless hamlets of quiet serenity.
The choices, though, can be daunting and visitors are handed a colourful amusement park-style guide map upon check-in. But if your first impulse is to chuck the map on the floor while rummaging for a swimming suit, a golf cart taxi can always be summoned at the push of a button. Here lies another core Kempinski strength: the staff is endlessly cheerful and guests are treated to a range of comforting perks. These include a complimentary laptop with high-speed internet access and iPod rentals. Cucumber slices distributed during sunbathing are also a nice touch.
But for the ultimate pampering experience, guests staying at the exclusive Royal Villa are offered a private beach – not a very common amenity on the Dead Sea – as well as series of personal infinity pools and gardens. Catering to every whim takes on a new meaning in this 16,000 USD/night mini-estate, which has recently hosted former British Prime Minister Tony Blair and actress Rene Zellweger. For example, a guest once noted the need for candies and was instead delivered a chocolate fountain, which has now become a permanent accommodation fixture.
I stayed in an Ishtar suite. My room was spacious and comfortable, especially the bed, which I still miss sinking into. The highlight was a massive tree-shaded balcony that dwarfed its centre table and four chairs. With a view of what seemed my own personal swimming pool and garden (I never saw another soul enter the water there for over two days, despite the reported 80 per cent occupancy rate) it may have been the ideal spot for in-room dining. But there was no time to waste. I didn't want to be late for my appointment at the spa, which is pitched to become the largest in the Middle East.
Managed by Thai firm Anatara, upcoming attractions are to include an ice cave, which is “great for blood circulation,” explains Ishtar's marketing manager, Najem Khalil.
For now, a boutique spa has been set up in one of the larger villas, where I sampled and can highly recommend the traditional Thai treatment. It begins with a gentle footbath followed by a full body massage that can be catered to three desired pressure levels applied firmly by a gracious Thai masseuse. Again, the ambiance perfectly compliments the landscape. Once you lift your face from the massage bed, the view of the sea through a large glass window, as seen running off a series of infinity pools, is almost as relaxing as the treatment itself. It doesn't have to end there. Perpetuate your languid state by taking a stroll to the beach where a pot of fresh mineral-enriched mud awaits at any time of day. Don't be shy, lather yourself up with the slimy stuff from head-to-toe, then bake in the sun like a piece of pottery for about twenty minutes until you begin to feel a bit crispy. Follow this with a float – you can't really call it a swim – in the waters coveted by Cleopatra. As the creamy earth slowly drifts away, your skin feels so smooth that you are surprised to find that the mud has actually completely washed off. Now lay back and breathe in the highly oxygenated air provided by all that additional sky at 420 metres below sea level.
Can it get better than this, you might ask? Well, maybe just a little. Although the Kempenski's strengths are many, cuisine is unfortunately not one of them. Don't get me wrong, the food was by no means bad, but you would hope for more variety in terms of ingredients for sauces and dips – the general flare required to really ‘kick things up a notch’ as celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse would say. But even if Ishtar's four eateries don't seemed to be poised for a Michelin Star any time soon, most guests, especially couples, will be quite forgiving as they meander back to their rooms along the recess-lit granite paths, inhaling the perfume of flowers amid the sound of trickling waterways that run past. Habib Battah
