You could easily spend your first few hours at Abu Dhabi’s Park Hyatt Hotel and Villas getting lost. I did. It’s not that the layout is labyrinthine but the freshly opened property is so expansive, you could easily go astray. On your way from the room to the Library, or from the spa to the Beach House, for example, the hotel seems to stretch forever in both directions and there are myriad ways in which it seems to unfold. It is on an island after all and not just any island, it’s on man-made Saadiyat, Arabic for Happiness.
So when my phone got lost on the beach, disappearing soundlessly into the sand, that’s what I told myself and in the end, only the bold lines of the immense lobby were able to re-orient me, that and the smiles of the ever-attentive personnel.
Service is so personalised, staff greet you by your name, even remembering you as the one who lost her phone by the sea. That is until they graciously retrieve it, just as you are beginning to regain your bearings.
From the moment your car rolls up to the sprawling hotel, it’s a grand affair, Arriving in the lobby, you’re already on the second floor, the first floor is at ground level and provides access to the shimmering Arabian Sea. If it’s November, you’ll find that the finely grained sand is never too hot, but what is most special about this strip is that with 9 kilometres of unspoiled coast, there’s nothing in sight but endless blue skies, the pristine sea and gleaming white sand with a remote cluster of low buildings – amongst them the St. Regis - to one side.
So you sit back and take in the splendour of Nothing; breaking waves, salty sea air, the serenity of being on an island in the middle of nowhere, the lush, landscaped gardens, mangroves and palms that provide delightful shade.
As you re-enter the hotel, you may think the sensual earthy tones, sensual and ambient lighting in reception are provided as respite from the brightness outside. In fact, it’s to deter the Hawksbill turtles that nest nearby and are drawn to light, from being attracted into the hotel.
From the majestic ceiling installation made of 2,800 aluminium rods that form billowing ridges and curves reminiscent of the movement of sand dunes to the black ‘desert rose’ atop what could be a fountain, except that it’s a capsule filled to the brim with water, Singapore-based interior architects Wilson Associates, have focused on the island’s natural elements; sand, wind and sea, incorporating them in the design, to create the regional character that defines all of Park Hyatt hotels.
The clean, minimalist lines of furnishings are dressed in muted tones of beige, rich brown leather and lustrous white marble, with occasional sculptural touches either in metallic black or the striking bronze used in reception desks.
The attention to detail is evident in these bold touches, dramatic in style, and in showcase objects, such as the sculpture of the largest Bedouin-style teapots I have ever seen, charcoal black and stacked on top of one other, that demand you stop and notice.
Marketing communications executive, Nabila Tilioui explained that the architects’ habit of breaking the mould each time they finished an installation, to ensure it could not be replicated, caused alarm. “What,” she said with charming consternation, “if one of the pieces got dislodged or fell?”
Of course there were the ubiquitous reference to regional architecture, like mashrabiyya room dividers but the steel cauldron-style dividers in the Café or the silver ball curtains in the spa, were pieces to be admired independently, traditional but with a distinctively contemporary feel.
To meditate on what it means to be on an island is easy when you can see it spread out in front of you, but once inside the Hyatt, the only reminders of your location are the comfortably upholstered daybeds on each of the 306 balconies adjoining rooms. The 4 private villas, and 39 beach-view or garden-view suites arranged in riad-like clusters around courtyards, come with private plunge pools and outdoor sun beds, full kitchens with dining areas and backdoor butler entrances. If there is something exceptional about this Park Hyatt, it is the small, private pleasures. After you’ve experienced the goose-down duvet, for example, you might not want to leave your bed, even with the spectacular sea beckoning.
The real glory is the bathroom, which has sliding glass doors that set it apart from the room without sealing it off. It’s an all-in-one modern unit with different functional spaces that open onto one another like a theatre. If you are in a hurry, then the powerful walk-in rainshower with its Chinese lava marble surroundings will do. For a slower ritual, the large, stand-alone Toto bathtub offers the most divine bath you can slip into, with complimentary salts and aromatic candles. The theme is a tangy bergamot for all bath products, just sharp enough for the senses and the towels are layer upon layer of softness.
You’ll be pleased to know that the Atarmia spa is the first spa in the Middle East to offer the glorious Quiro Golf massage. This 90-minute treatment, which comes with complimentary hot stone therapy and foot rub as prelude, uses golf balls to apply pressure on strained areas and makes you feel as if the weight has been taken off your body, leaving you lighter and more resplendent.
Atarmia is an ancient Persian word referring to the flowing aromatic oils extracted from plants, which is probably why the smell of rose oil wafts throughout the spa, with its soothing greys and marble chosen to match the wood. Sipping mint tea here after your treatment, you can watch goings on at the Saadiyat Beach Golf Club, designed by Gary Player, or take a dip in the 25-metre outdoor pool, which is more secluded than the hotel’s other four outdoor pools.
Pounded and stretched, thoughts turn naturally to food. When it comes to gustatory delights, two of the hotel’s four dining options come wrapped in glass and bathed in outside views. Begin your day at one of them with the sumptuous brunch at the Café, a mouth-watering buffet-style feast featuring scrumptious Belgian waffles with cherry sauce, buttermilk pancakes and assorted European pastries like zopf, brioche or kugelhopf. During the day, the Café goes eastern, serving mezze alongside classic Asian dishes like Nasi Goreng, Indonesian fried rice, served with shrimp and chicken satay.
For an intimate, fine dining experience, don’t miss lunch at The Bar & Grill for steaks straight from the grill and speciality seafood dishes like crispy Alaskan crab cakes with sweet chilli sauce or shellfish soup with croutons and rouille, a chilli-based Provençal condiment. To truly ignite your taste buds, the roasted orange-spotted giant kingfish with Thai basil, tamarind and palm sugar sauce is a dream.
After your meal, a stop at the Library is a must. The deep orange leather panels, chocolate white and brown furniture and black marble accents contrast with the sober, dark grey coolness of the Bar and Grill. Sit by the fireplace (there is always a fire, if only to counteract the powerful air-conditioning) and try the specialty teas like hibiscus or blackcurrant with whole rosebuds and a plate of the wonderful cinnamon, caramel and vanilla bean truffles.
My personal favourite was to take sunset cocktails at the Beach House. Nor was I alone. Other guests seemed to enjoy it too, whether for the uninterrupted sky views, orange streaks fading into midnight blue or the end-of-the-day ice-creams (I liked the almond with fruit and blood orange sorbet) including more unusual adult versions made with liquor, like the beer with dried cherries and the oat crumble. Appetizers too are lovely, particularly the warm kalamata olives and roasted almonds.
It may be that there isn’t yet much to do on Saadiyat Island, but perhaps that’s the point. In a world of hotels that all offer the same standard, Abu Dhabi’s Park Hyatt offers a little something extra. It may not be the Emirates Palace with its Swarovski crystal chandeliers and gold-leaf opulence but it doesn’t have to be. The pleasure of the Park Hyatt does not depend on glitz. A beguiling mix of private exclusivity and casual familiarity, it leaves you feeling both cared for and royal. There were those I met during my stay who did not leave the hotel for days, as the outside world slipped further and further away. Alone with oneself, in nature but with the comfort of five-star hospitality, you are free to wander the Park Hyatt’s wide open spaces, to find yourself a sanctuary, your very own piece of Happiness.
WHAT Park Hyatt Hotel and Villas
WHERE Saadiyat Island, Abu Dhabi
FACT The Hyatt chain was founded by Jay Pritzker, founder of the world’s most prestigious architectural award, the Pritzker Prize
WHY The 275 million USD Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi is a tropical beach getaway that’s right around the corner and the fact it’s surrounded by lush gardens, next door to the golf club and within close proximity to the upcoming cultural district, we believe it’s got all its bases covered.
